I've just returned from a fine ten days in sunny Toledo. Located around 45 miles south of Madrid, it is full of beautiful architecture. Many of the buildings are so old you wonder how the foundations are still standing. We stayed in the historic Casco with a terrace that provided all kinds of views - little corners, the tops of buildings, cities and countryside far away. Our meals would be accompanied by well behaved swallows who would soar over the skies, like they were serenading us in order to receive some of our food. Their fluttering was also complimented by ringing bells on the hour and half hour; no need for a watch to lead a managed, organised life. The city has since developed with flats and shops outside the walled centre, but nothing beats authentic stone and brickwork with oriental locations you know generations have enjoyed for hundreds of years.
The main reason for going was one of celebration: that my A-level exams were complete. After months of revising and sacrificing many of my geographical and cultural pleasures, it was bliss to have all the time in the world to enjoy the many cultural delights. Most notably, the opportunity to read for pleasure increased by an immeasurable percentage. Wherever our walks and explorations over the last week and a half took us, there was definitely an opportunity to engage in proactive and engaging literary delights. Among my reads were 'The Last Temptation', an (as ever) gripping crime novel by Val McDermid, 'The Bookshop', a poignant fictional tale of literature by Penelope Fitzgerald and 'What's Left?', a combative, hard-hitting analysis of the political left by Nick Cohen. Each of the books were so varied and different as I have always had an interest in both the factual and fictional. The ability to read what I wanted, when I wanted and not having to memorise the information for an exam was a delight. ****************************************************************************************************************** Coincidentally, our visit to Toledo was the same week as their flagship Corpus Christi festival. Taking place nine weeks after Easter, it remains an important religious festival in the Toledo calendar. Yet there was so much more to the celebrations, including a pop concert featuring two (yes, two!) 2019 Eurovision acts! The celebration culminated with all Toledo workers being given a Bank Holiday to enjoy a procession. The route of the procession was obvious for all to see with draped protection, flowers along the narrow paths, colourful fabrics and spectacular delights. The city is already aesthetically pleasing enough - the Corpus Christi celebrations make it even more so. From watching the procession, which was covered on national Spanish television and packed with people, it was clear - under all the amusing celebrations - that Spaniards have a clear appreciation for public servants. Individuals on the procession included nurses, soldiers and police officers keeping an attentive eye on the situation. I'm sure we Brits would say, if asked, that we valued those professions. But there is never such explicit appreciation in the UK, compared to the applause and so obvious praise heaped upon each of the representatives for the occupations on the continent. What a joy to behold! ****************************************************************************************************************** Of course, the religious aspects still played a significant influence in the festival. Why shouldn't they? Spain has far higher levels of religiousity than the UK, with Catholicism dominating. Toledo itself is often known as the Church capital of Spain, having previously been the capital before Madrid up to the 1500s. Crosses and religious figures popped up all over the Casco! Part of the procession involved the transportation of a quite stunning golden model of Toledo Cathedral. The intricate detail, even from afar, was evident and it was clear that faith bound people together. This was further demonstrated during the Sunday service at Toledo Cathedral - the full size - which involved an extra special procession entering the building. Inside, it is impossible not to feel awe at the building's scale and intricate details. Nobody likes a stained glass window more than me. There was a majestic air about the whole process, even with the singing and spoken Latin phrases. This only increased with choir boys singing away, note perfect. For individuals of that age involved in religious services, all I can say is I hope they are taking part because of their own personal belief in a deity and not because they feel any pressure to have faith. ****************************************************************************************************************** Culture is the building block of civilizations. This statement was no more evident in the number of museums and cultural organisations we had the opportunity to visit. A key memory was browsing the El Greco Museum. The small, compact area, set within a picturesque home, celebrates the life and works of Domenikos Theotokopoulos, better known as El Greco. Though the museum was created on the site that was incorrectly believed to be his former home, the rooms of paintings offer a fraction of justice to his exceptional ability. The landscape plan of Toledo in particular is a great tribute to the wonderful city, allowing we modern 21st century types to explore how the city evolved. I'll always admire artists who can master portraiture, for, as my secondary school memories re-enter my mind, it is such a difficult medium of art. Portraits of the 12 disciples all gazing towards Jesus also allow El Greco to demonstrate his talents. Away from art history, we found time to explore Toledo's Army Museum. Located in the same building as the library, I had often wondered what took up the space underneath the reading areas that gaze out to Toledo. It was satisfying to find out. Like the Duxford Air Museum near my home patch, the Army Museum swells up your personal admiration and full appreciation for every individual that fought and gave their lives so we could be free today. Whether it was through the fancy costumes, many of which looked far too heavy for battle, or the tiny soldiers all neatly painted, now priceless, collectible items, one couldn't help but feel sheer amazement that generations in the past were bound together, fighting for a cause they believed was right at whatever personal cost. This courage was most explicitly demonstrated by seeing a room left exactly in its damaged form after much of the library was destroyed. Holes from bullets were evident in the walls, with wallpaper peeling off and floorboards crumbling away. The museum curators even retained telephones that presumably would have been used to phone for help. Whatever your views on the military, the sight of such devastation could only stir some emotion. The room, as a form of architectural destruction, helped to symbolise the cost of human destruction as a consequence of warfare. ****************************************************************************************************************** Spain is known for its hot weather, indeed, the temperatures hit 40 degrees Celsius while we were visiting. The only option was to find a swimming pool. We were, and remain, very lucky to have access to an expansive tennis club with a clean, significant swimming pool at its centre. There is nothing quite like the serene immersion in the water, gazing up at the clear blue sky and feeling engaged in nature. My newly discovered method for completing widths is the backstroke. Picture it: my arms flailing around me, my ears in the pool unable to hear anyone, my eyes fixed up above, unable to see anyone. I'll be the first to admit my technique, to give an conservative judgement, requires some improvement. But though I may not be destined for the 'Team GB' Tokyo Olympics team (Damn!), the feeling of being embraced by water is one that all individuals - regardless of ability - can appreciate. It is a feeling like no other.
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